Italy Blog

Monday, last day here in Florence

2009-10-19T08:56:00.009-05:00

Tomorrow morning, I must get up at 4am, leave by 5am and drive back to Milan. Return the car, have someone from the office drive me to the airport, but at lest this last day, I spent walking around areas of Florence I have never been to. Probably over 4 hours walking.

I headed east from the Ponte Vecchio bridge (see pic to left) down along the via Lungarno delle Grazie. This busy streets runs along the Arno River.

I crossed over at the Ponte San Niccolo bridge and made my way up to the Piazzale Michelangelo. This is just before I started the long climb to the top.

I cannot express how empty the city is compared to when I was here two years ago. Maybe because it is fairly cool (around 50 degrees, maybe 55). when I reached the piazzale Michelangelo, there were less than sixty people besides some vendors. Usually, there are hundreds.

There is an old wall North of the Arno (see pic). I knew there was a road down there so I decided to follow it just to see. Everything on this side of the river is uphill, unlike on the other side of the Arno where walking is fairly level.

I took a few different pictures from angles that are not the norm. I must admit, it was a pretty cold day. Only when the sun came out, did it feel comfortable and the wind has been up too.

Here is a picture looking back at Piazzale Michelangelo - as you can see, there are very few people up there and this was around 1pm.

I walked up hill until reached Fort Belverdere, where I then descended down Costa di S Giorgio, a simple residential area. It lead back to the Ponte Vecchio bridge (picture below).

There is way too many things here to do and I think one needs to come back and experience little bits at a time. It has been a fabulous vacation again.

Saturday night opera

2009-10-18T12:58:00.004-05:00

I actually had the opportunity to attend an opera last night here in Florence. It was held at St Marks English Church. There were four singers and just a few props. The opera was Verid's La Travita. I cannot express how beautiful their voices were and how the acoustics sounded in the church. It was small and intimate. The actors were only a few feet away. It wasa very special treat for me. I took a few photos, but it was difficult for obvious reasons. However, here are a couple I think turned okay - they are still a little grainy, but it gives you an idea.

Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore - Duomo

2009-10-17T17:36:00.006-05:00

Last time I was here, I did not get a chance to visit inside the Duomo. This time I did and I am glad. I am over using the word "beautiful" but that is how it is here. Everything is breath-taking.

To climb the stairs to the very top, one must purchase tickets and take part in a guided tour. The tour starts on ground level where the guide (a young bella Italian woman) tells you many facts about the church. After a bit, you begin the first climb, up the first 150 steps until you reache the first tier terraces (which I didn’t know existed). Here you see beautiful views looking South. There is room enough for several hundred people onthis wide terrace, unlike the top of the dome; which is some 300 more steps. The guide leads you to front of the church and you can look down to the Baptistery, then walk along a very narrow ledge (luckily, it has the 4 foot stone rail-wall) and go through a low door, drop down a few steps into the inner walkway, just below the Dome Fresco. I've added a picture here so you can get an idea.

You then walk about 50 feet, then back up and out on to another small ledge and find yourself on the other side of the lower terrace looking off North.

This terraces leads to the entrance to the final steps leading up to the very top of the Duomo. It is a difficult climb – very steep and steeper even more. The passage way is room enough for a small man, so when meeting someone coming down the exact same way, one has to back up or squeeze by if the size permits. It is very tight.
You can spend as much time as you like at the top.
Here is one picture of one of the views

Florence, Italy... again

2009-10-17T08:34:00.003-05:00

I arrived in my hotel room at 2pm. The weird thing is, every day I was to arrive at my hotel, has been right at 2pm – very weird. I certainly didn’t plan it that way.

To back up a bit: I left Cortona around 10:15. I headed towards another small town called Arezzo, as it was on my way to Florence. I am glad I did. Not because I stopped here, but this road, SS71 led me up into the mountains again. I cannot express how beautiful the views are, one after another. The roads are steep and twisting. It reminded me between driving in the mountains of Arkansas. Hairpin turns taken at 30mph and very steep grades. The problem is, there is never a good place to pull over and take pictures. It was very frustrating. I took some video out my front windshield, but honestly, I don’t know well it translate onto a tv/video. Nevertheless, I took for my own personal memory as it was remarkable.

Using my TomTom navigation device, I wanted to drive through Fiesole, which is North of Florence. Again, the views down onto Florence were stunning. I hope to take a bus back up to Fiesole to do some research for my novel. I was able to get a couple of snapshots from here. I then followed my directions to the Hotel across the street from the Santa Maria Novella church. Driving through these small cities is difficult at best and easy to get lost. Had I not had the navigation device, who knows how long it would’ve taken.

I had a wonderful lunch in the piazza Santa Maria Novella. I’ve attached a couple of pictures.

From Venice to Cortona

2009-10-16T02:06:00.004-05:00

I chose to visit the small town of Cortona because two years ago, it was on our list of places to visit, but we never did. My two friends I think really wanted to see it. I am not sure why there was no time, but we didn’t get to it. So I drove from Venice to Cortona. I arrived to a spectacular view of this small town sitting on the side of a hilltop. Once here I can see why my friends wanted to visit the small little town. I found the hotel without much trouble and had to drive the car up a very steep grade and narrow street to get to it. The hotel staff parked my car, I checked in, then I was off to explore Cortona. You better be in some kind of good shape for this town. Walking is up and down hill, and it is very steep. Here you could use that old saying, “I walked to school in the snow up hill – both ways’. That is exactly how you feel as you walk around.

The views of the country side are breath taking and reminds me of Montalcino, which is actually very close. It was difficult to choose which photo, as I had so many beautiful one's to choose from. Some people may remember the movie, “Under the Tuscan Sun” which was filmed here and probably why my friends wanted to visit.

My room is very Tuscany with the high wooden ceilings and long flowing drapes on the windows. There is no view outside the window but the building across the small street. But I was not complaining. :-)

from Bergamo to Venice

2009-10-15T01:38:00.006-05:00

The drive was quite lovely, though it was difficult to pull over while on the autostrada (toll road). I think tomorrow when I head to Florence, I will take non toll roads, so it is easy to pull over to take a photo.

I arrived at my hotel around 1:30pm thanks the TomTom navigator my Italian friends lent me. Even with that, it was difficult to take the right roads at time. After a two hour nap, I headed to Venice, which was about 10 minutes from the hotel via bus. The hotel clerk gave me a bus pass and explained what to do. I must admit, it was a little stressful, unsure of how to use the machine, what bus stop, where to get off, but it was manageable. Stepping off the bus onto Venice island was a real treat. The pictures one sees, then to actually be there was breath-taking. The first picture is what I saw as I stepped away from the bus onto the Grand Canal. It was already 5:30 and it would be dark in an hour. I walked for what seemed like hours trying to get to famous piazza San Marco square, where all the pigeons are. If it wasn’t for the signs “sort” of directing you, I would have never found the place. It was all so beautiful, but there is so much here to see and do, and my time was very limited. I tried to slow my pace and I did many pictures, but after awhile, every street looks just like the last one. Luckily, I had purchased a map at the hotel and one really needs one. Going down alleys and winding through very narrow streets in the dark is not for the shy. I felt safe at all times, but it was anxious nevertheless. The crowds were very small. I was able to see the square and travel the narrow streets with relative ease, which is not the usual case, as Venice, like Florence in the high season is should to shoulder people.

Since I did not have time to sit and eat a meal, I simply grab a panni sandwich and espresso. I had not eaten since earlier this morning. After making my way back to bus area and several blind alleys plus it was now dark, which I then had to double back, I made it to the bus. The bus is mass transit, and mostly working Italians are on it – not many tourist. I had no clue where to get off or where my stop was or how to tell the driver. I just remember, the hotel clerk said try and push the stop button when you reach the round-about. Coming back, I thought there must be dozens of round-abouts – which one I thought? I timed the bus trip and added a couple of minutes. We hit a round-about (the first one), and started driving down this street, which sort of looked familiar, but who knows in the dark. Nevertheless, when the bus stopped (others were exiting), I decided to exit too. I started walking in the direction of the hotel (I hoped) and sure enough, I was on the right street. So, I guess I got lucky. No problems.

here is a little video I put together. again it is has not been edited.

Tuesday night in Milan

2009-10-15T01:09:00.003-05:00

My boss, Alberto, took me to dinner in Milan at a friend's restaurant, which was small and friendly. Before hand, he took me on a walking tour, as Alberto lives in the city center of old Milan. We had a beer first at a local pub and watched all the beautiful ladies walk by. Actually, I didn't think the woman were as beautiful as many are in America. When then walked. Where I can not say exactly, as I was not expecting to be toured, so I had done no research on Milan. Later, I will come back to this post and fill in exactly what I saw. Until then, am posting this video. This is all at night and some of is jittery. It is raw, unedited video, but it gives an ideal of the beauty of Milan.

Bergamo - day two

2009-10-13T17:49:00.004-05:00

It is after mid-night, and I am just getting back to the hotel here in Bergamo. What a long day. we worked from 8-6pm, then drove to downtown Milan. The traffic was horrific. I wanted to post just a couple of pics outside my hotel window from last night.

Okay... now that those two pictures are posted, I wanted to make a couple of comments on Milan, but it is very late and I need to get to bed. I try and post some video of Milan il centro tomorrow. They are all night time videos and should look very cool + some more pictures of Bergamo.

Arrived in Bergamo

2009-10-12T10:03:00.005-05:00

Bergamo is just NE of Milan about 45 minutes. Our corporate office is ten minutes back towards Milan. The flight was cramped and long, but well worth seeing Italy again. I just came from the office having spent all day there and have not had time to take a picture of the outside of this hotel, just a couple of shots inside the room.

The employee who met me at the airport spoke some English and with my little ability of Italian, we were able to communicate.

I got to the office a little after 11:00am and was greeted by my CFO, Alberto. He showed me around the offices and warehouse, then he, the owner, and my counter part, Matteo all went to eat lunch at some cafe they go to for lunch. Just a simple pasta dish, but excellent.

Back at the office, sitting inside of Alberto's office, one can look at his window which is the whole wall and see the very beginnings of the Swiss Alps. They are very close here and jet upward. I was surprise they were not a more gradient incline.

Meeting everyone else in the office was fun and Paola made me use my Italian to greet her team, as she emails me in Italian to help me practice. Everyone has been extremely gracious.

As you can see the room is very modern. The hotel Petronilla has been open only 5 weeks.

Leaving for Milan today

2009-10-11T09:13:00.002-05:00

I wanted to post this picture for my friend Ed'Veeje. She and her sister teased me two years ago for the big giant suitcase I brought (being a male) while her and her sister (Raquel) each had very small bags.

Ed'Veeje, note, I have scaled down this time. This is an overhead bag, but I'll check it. I thought you might get a good laugh from my ability to downsize :)

Two years later, back to Italy

2009-10-04T12:56:00.002-05:00

I have the opportunity through my work to return to Italy this month - two years after my very first trip with my close friends Ed'Veeje and her sister Raquel. I will only have to spend a couple of days at the corporate headquarters outside of Milano, then I will take a week for myself.

I hope to write my entries on here each day my thoughts and adventures. Look for my first entry Tuesday, Oct 13th.

Italian Videos now ready

2008-05-12T18:41:00.007-05:00

Below are some of the videos I created.

Florence

Below is the beauty of Florence at night:

Here is the small villa we stayed at, Ciliegio

This is Ludmilla's place:

High Praise from Italians

2008-01-29T19:20:00.000-06:00

I recently received some praise from two Italians, and coming from Italians, I'll take it. :)

First was from Ed'Veeje's friend, Giovanni, whom she had sent a link to regarding my blog. Here is her email to me about it, what Giovanni thought:

I sent your website and blog and my recent poem about Italia to my dear friend Giovanni who lives just south of Naples and he loved it. He said it makes him love Italia more than he knew he did. That says something - especially when said by a southern Italian man!

'Veeje

Second, was from Rebecca from the Brunello Wine Tour I took. She made a link to it from her website: http://tuscan-wine-tours.blogspot.com/
scroll down to: Saturday, January 12, 2008 Happy 2008

Hi Michael, I finally got high speed internet and have just watched your video - loved it!!! What programme do you use to edit with? I hope you are well and writing lots on your book!

My best,

Rebecca

Thanks for the compliments Rebecca and Giovanni.
Here is the video link on my blog: http://michaeldpalmer.blogspot.com/2007/10/wednesday-october-10-2007.html

For Your Information

2007-12-16T08:32:00.000-06:00

Since returning from Italy, I have been re-editing my blog while in Italy, correcting errors in spelling, words left out. I wrote it fairly quickly upon my return. I have been going back over it and adding additional information the last sixty days and have started adding video recently.

The videos are played just like those on YouTube. You shouldn't need anything additional to watch them. Just click and it will play. If it doesn't play, there is something wrong on your end.

I hope anyone who takes time to read or watch my trip about Italy will enjoy. May it bring back your own memories from when you were there, or inspire you to plan your own trip someday.

~ Michael

Sunday, my last day, Ooct 14th, 2007

2007-10-25T19:24:00.000-05:00

I got up early and walked Florence one last time. I wanted to take pictures of where Melinda took me and some other places, so I could always remember.

I then walked to the Duomo where it was completely deserted, unlike yesterday. I took some great photos and video. Florence in the morning is just like William Wordsworth's poem, "Composed on Westminster Bridge" described. Again, I felt a peace and calm. I felt attached to Florence. Sometimes, the soul recognizes certain people and certain places. This was one such place, as was Italy, but Florence had it its own special power.

I had a wonderful breakfast again at the Guelfa. I took off for the airport around 10:30am. Made the flight at 1:00 and I was on my way. Flying into Paris, I was able to see the Eiffel Tower and the surrounding structures. Perhaps that will be another adventure I told myself. I only hope it is with someone special who I may shower kisses upon.

While my trip to Italy could be called a trip of a Life time (and it was), I hate that term. It applies you only go once, and I intend to visit Florence many more times. I bid Italy and Florence "arrivederci per adesso" (goodbye for now).

Saturday Afternoon - Oct 13th, 2007

2007-10-25T18:32:00.000-05:00

After I left Melinda, I went back to San Lorenzo market where I bought a couple of souvenirs. One for Bob and a couple of things for Sam'e. Bob's gift was easy. He just wanted a coffee cup. I found one with a picture of Florence on it. Sam'e wanted a plate or something similar. I found a hand-painted saucer and cup with the artist's name painted on the bottom. It is very beautiful. I then went to find some very special stationary for myself. I wanted to write and thank Ed'Veeje and Raquel for inviting me, and I wanted it to come from Italy.

I found a beautiful design in one of the stores along the Arno River. There was no stationary with Florence on it - I couldn't believe it. I asked the shop owner, and she had to go into the back store room, where she found exactly what I was looking for. It was cream color. At the top of paper was a hand-painted picture of Florence, with the Duomo, and some other recognizable buildings. The small little two and half picture is framed by gold Greek-looking border. The top and bottom of the frame have blue line running across it. It was perfect.

I spent the afternoon again walking around in Florence, still allowing this beautiful lover to soak into my soul. I cannot describe how complete I felt with Florence. I barely knew her, and yet she had made me another one of her many lovers. If I never return, I have no regrets. I wished I could've done more, but had I tried to run here or there and do everything, I would've missed Florence, the gentle lover all together. Some of you may laugh using the term lover, but until you are there and allow yourself to let the beauty of the City wash over you in "slow" moments of being, you will never understand. The picture above is one I took late at night when all the vendors were gone, on the west side of the Piazza della Republicca, under the porticoes.

I ended up having dinner alone (purposely) early at Piazza della Signoria at one of the squares tourist restaurants. It was not that good, but sitting there and watching the sun go down in the square watching people walk by was peaceful. Families, tourist, Italians, lovers, kids, it was all so beautiful to me. I was part of Florence. I returned to my hotel room and wrote two letters with my new stationary. One to Ed'Veeje and one my friend, Kathy.

Here is a little video I put together with poem and music. This is just like viewing YouTube videos. If it doesn't start in 30 seconds, there is something wrong on your end.

Saturday, October 13th, 2007

2007-10-24T16:38:00.000-05:00

I woke early Saturday morning. It would be my last full day in Firenze. I was to meet Melinda Gallo, who lives in Florence. She is a blogger describing her daily life while living in Florence. She does an excellent job of describing the daily lives of Italians and what it is like to live in Italy, specifically, Florence.

Saturday was a clear and was going to be a beautiful day.

I met Melinda at 9:00 am as agreed in her Piazza. She pointed to her apartment on the top floor, with a terrace above it. We then walked along the Arno on our way to one of her favorite coffee shops, Caffè Giacosa. We talked and got to know each other. I had my first espresso then a cappuccino and pastry. We had a great conversation. Melinda wouldn't allow me to pay for it, which was difficult for me being a Texas gentleman.

I then took Melinda over to my hotel to show her the roof terrace view. She thought it was breath-taking too. She said she never tired of looking at Florence. I agreed. I could've sat there forever looking out over the city. There is poem by William Wordsworth which reminds of Florence:

Earth has not anything to show more fair:
Dull would he be of soul who could pass by
A sight so touching in its majesty:
This City now doth, like a garment wear
The beauty of the morning; silent, bare,
Ships, towers, domes, theaters, and temples lie
Open unto the fields, and to the sky;
All bright and glittering in the smokeless air.
Never did sun more beautifully steep
In his first splendor valley, rock, or hill;
Ne'er saw I, never felt, a calm so deep!
The river glideth at his own sweet will.
Dear God! the very houses seem asleep;
And all that mighty heart is lying still!

Melinda and I then parted company. She had some shopping to do as I did. She asked if I'd like to go to lunch, so we met back up at 1:00pm. She took me over to Oltrano district and we ate near the church Santa Spirito. The Osteria Santo Spirito had great food and we had a very good meal and great conversation. We then took coffee across from the Pitti Palace at Gola E Cantina and Wine Bar I believe, a few blocks away. The great thing about Florence is walking every where. I enjoyed that so much. We departed finally and I felt like I had another friend. She was a remarkable woman. She shared with me her and her boyfriend, Alessandro were getting married later this month. I was so happy for her. It was a great treat for me meeting her. I wish her and Alessandro all the best. I still read her blog about living in Florence, being married, and living a dream.

Friday Night, Oct 12th, 2007

2007-10-23T20:33:00.000-05:00

I met a very fun, interesting, cute couple from Ft Worth , Texas of all places. We hit it off and they invited me to dinner with them. I hesitated, but then decided to accept the invitation. I just didn't want to be alone tonight. We ended up at a little Trattoria about two blocks from the hotel. We had to wait until 8:30 before we got some seats. It is very popular. The food was okay. The couple didn't drink, but I ordered some wine anyway.

After dinner, I departed the couple and walked the very quiet streets of Florence. I loved walking with no crowds and feeling Florence in a different way. I walked along the gentle flowing Arno river, passed by lovers kissing on a moonless night. I stopped back on via maria street and got myself a gelato. I leaned up against a building and ate my ice cream, watching the people and night go by.

Friday, October 12th, 2007

2007-10-23T19:38:00.002-05:00

I woke up at the villa around 7:30am and packed my few remaining belongings. My suitcase was already at the hotel in Florence. I made coffee and found the gift and card Ed'Veeje and Raquel had left me. I sipped my coffee reading their card, then wondered if they made it to the airport okay. They had to be there at 6:30am.

I video taped the villa so I could remember my week here. Video taped and took pictures of our view. Once I figure out how to edit my videos and upload, I'll post a couple.

I left some Euros on the table for our utilities as instructed, then I locked everything up, slid the key under the mat and drove back to Florence.

Driving into Florence was pretty easy. I went back to Piazza Michelango and stayed up there for about an hour simply taking in Florence before returning my rental car. As I returned the car, I drove down into the heart of Florence. The motorcycles surrounded me. Like dozens of little bees humming around my car, all I could do was just hold my line. The cyclist had done this hundreds of times, so I didn't worry about them and just drove normally, carefully not to make sudden moves. I drove across Ponte Trinita again, with Ponte Vecchio just to my right. I actually videtaped it a little as I crossed the bridge. It was so surreal. I turned left on Lungarno which runs along the Arno, finding my way to via Ognissanti, where the rental agency was. I am still amazed at all the cars hiding under these centuries old buildings. While you hear a lot about how crazy driving is in places like Florence or Rome, I don't think it was that bad. I'd like to see some Italians try driving in Dallas or Houston. I realized the real difference between driving here and there are the speeds. It is easy to stop or pull out in front of people when the speed you are going is less than 30 mph. What makes it seems faster is how narrow and small things are. It amplifies the sensation. I pulled into the rental place's garage, turned in the car and I was on my way.

I walked back to my hotel carrying my back pack. It was only a few blocks and a ten minute walk. My room wasn't ready, so I dumped off the backpack and headed out again. I stopped off a couple of doors down to a little wine and sandwich shop. The girl behind the counter was very pretty and she was kind to this American. It was 11:15 and I needed some food desperately. The sandwich and pastry filled the need. I bought some water and began exploring Florence again.

I ended up down in the San Lorenzo Market looking at all that was for sell. I started thinking about who I might buy a souvenir for. I had to keep it small since I had very little room in my bag. I had to buy my friend Bob something because he gave me an old 5 euro he had from a previous trip from years ago, and I wanted to get my friend Sam'e something. She has become such a dear friend. There are few people I would do anything for, and she is among the handful.
I got some ideas. I then hung out at the Piazza della Signoria under to Loggia until 1:00, then headed for my hotel to see if my room was ready. While at the Loggia, I was able to videotape two artist. One was actually writing music as they looked out at the crowds and the other was sketching. My videocamera stealthily zoomed in on their works, as if I was peeping over the shoulders. They were totally unaware of the intrusion as I focused in on their work. I thought how appropriate to capture artist at work where Renaissance art began.

The room was a suite this time. It was large and nice, and much more typical of what I had imagined an Italian hotel room to be. I tried to take a nap but I was keyed up, so I repacked my suitcase and reorganized it. I then headed up to the tower terrace where I read and journaled and enjoyed the view again. I spent a lot of time up on the terrace and I could have spent much more time there. It was beautiful and peaceful.

Thursday, October 11, 2007

2007-10-22T20:07:00.000-05:00

We rose early. The girls packed their bags as well as I did, though I would be coming back to the villa tonight. But, I thought it a good ideal to drop off my suitcase at the hotel so I wouldn't have to drag it about Friday when I would be checking back into the Hotel Guelfa. The last thing you want to do in Florence is drag your suitcase over cobble and stones as well dodge cars.

We arrived in Florence around 10:40am. We first drove up to the Piazza di Michelangiolo. From there, I had to drive in historic Florence, manuvering through narrow streets, trying to find our way into the historical district. We drove down via del Romana, then took via via Maggio. This took us to the Arno, where we crossed over the Ponte S Trinta bridge; this is the first brige West of Ponte Vecchio. Once we crossed, you make an imediate right on Lungarno. this street runs one way along the Arno towards Ponte Vecchio. There is a little alley way right before you get to via Por Santa Maria. Turning down this alley, takes you Borgo Apostoli, where the hotel is. I dropped the girls and bags off at the Hotel Guelfa. I then drove around looking for a parking space. It doesn't take long driving around downtown Florence to realize finding parking spot is going to be difficult at best. I ended up driving up to Piazza di Michelangiolo and parked free where all the tourist and buses were. It took about 20 minutes to find my way back up there.

The view from here was truly amazing over looking all Florence and beyond. I can see why so many pictures are taken from this vantage point. I took a few pictures and video of my own, then I headed down the stairs and to make my way to Piazza della Signoria where I was to meet Ed'Veeje and Raquel.

The walk took me about 15 minutes, walking down hill, along the Arno, crossing Ponte Grazie bridge, past Melinda's house, past the Uffizi, then into the piazza, which was crowded as usual. I found the girls sitting at the bottom of statue-filled Loggia dei Lanzi, where many important Greek statues stood. If you have ever seen the movie, "A Room with View"(1986), this is where Lucy Honeychurch faints, and is carried to by George. I had a difficult finding them at first, thinking they would be in the middle of piazza, but I soon saw them sitting under the Loggia.

We ended up walking over to the Piazza della Republicca, where we had lunch at Gilli, Florence's oldest cafe (1733). The food and wine here were very good. We talked and watched the people. Little did I know I would be parting from the girls sooner than I had anticipated. Had I known, I would've not allowed them to buy my lunch. I was looking forward to dinner with them as well as drinking wine from atop the Hotel Guelfa over looking Florence with them. That was something I wanted to share with them. But some things are not meant to be.

We walked back to the hotel after lunch and the bell hop moved the girls to their room, now that it was ready. As soon as the bell hop left, Raquel retreated to the bedroom and Ed'Veeje talked to me about if I wouldn't mind leaving them alone. They were leaving for Boston very early the next morning. I think they needed time by themselves before they flew back to states where they were to face dragons they would need slaying, especially Raquel. I knew what these dragons were, but it would be inappropriate to disclose here, online.

I left the hotel and started walking. I didn't know where I was going. I just walked for a while. I ended up along the Arno River. Just like that, I was alone again, I thought. Alone in a beautiful city. It had been one of the most incredible weeks of my life, with two dear friends I have learned to care for greatly. The week was not faced paced, but a gentle flow of activity, relaxing, and talking. The kind of talking and friendship I shared that week is something I have been missing from my life for quite sometime.

I walked around Florence slowly and soon found myself back at the car. I made my way back to the villa. While driving, I felt a peace come over me. It seems I have always been alone, punctuated with moments of beauty such as I have experienced with friends like Ed'Veeje and Raquel, and sometimes with my friend Sam'e. Music, poetry and art sometimes give me this feeling. At times, I feel as if I live from one beautiful moment to the next. I love life and all it has to offer. So many wonderful things and wonderful people I encounter. I remember the four Spaniards I met in Spain in 2000 at the bullfight, Ludmilla and her family on this trip - real Italians; other Americans; Melinda, who I can now say is a friend. How can one not embrace life? One must live life. See the world. To not act is a crime against oneself. The key is to simplify. Enjoy the little things and the good moments that come. They hold us. And if we are really fortunate, we might even find true love.

Later that Evening, Wednesday, Oct 10th.

2007-10-22T18:24:00.003-05:00

After we were dropped off from our wine tour, the girls and I decided to tour the walled town, Monteriggioni. This little walled town was very small. It couldn't have been bigger than a couple of blocks. It had several restaurants and some shops, like shoes and purses. You could walk along the walls and get another spectacular views of Tuscany. (edit: 2/16/08 - added video below)

It was getting close to sunset and Ed'Veeje and I watched the sun go down from the western wall, while Raquel watched it alone from another wall. I think she wanted to be alone for personal reasons, which of course I will not go into here.

It was a beautiful sunset. Then we met up with Raquel and decided to eat at one of the restaurants. We were getting hungry and decided not to wait for some of the nicer places to open at 7:30, but ended up eating at 7:00. the food was okay and the wine was pretty good. The candle lit setting, with the soft lights of the buildings around us was a beautiful setting. I would've taken a picture, but I was just to tired and didn't want to bug the girls with yet, another picture. Above is a picture I took earlier in Monteriggioni. You can get an idea of the size, plus the link I included above.

After dinner, we headed back to the villa for a good night sleep. Thursday would be Florence again.

Video of Monteriggioni

Wednesday, October 10, 2007 - Lunch time

2007-10-22T18:06:00.001-05:00

After the wine tour, we went to a real Olive oil farm. They were two weeks from harvesting their olives. Here we had a lovely lunch with Chianti table wine. Everyone enjoyed themselves and talked and shared about their adventures and places they had been while in Italy - all Americans of course.

The owner of the Olive farm gave us a history of the olive trees in Italian of course, with Rebecca translating. He showed how the oil press worked which was in the room with us.

Afterwards, we walked around and took some pictures before we took off for Montalcino itself.

Everyone piled out of the van and did their own thing. Rebecca and I went to a wine store where she helped me pick out some wines. Inside the wine shop, which apparently is housed in the old castle. The woman behind the bar told me to go upstairs and take a look. So I climbed three flight of stairs and here is the view I saw from the walls. Absolutely breathtaking. Just like a postcard.

Finally, Rebecca dropped us off back at our rental car. But the girls and I weren't done yet.

Wednesday, October 10, 2007

2007-10-22T17:45:00.000-05:00

Today we went on a wine tour I booked months before to the famous Montalcino region, south of Siena. Our wine tour guide, Rebecca, met us at 9:15am in Monteriggioni, just outside a little bar called: Bar del Orso. There the girls and I had cappuccinos. The day started out cloudy and cold. Luckily, I chose to wear a sweater. Around 1:00, the clouds broke and we had a beautiful day.

After Rebecca picked us up in her king size van, we drove to Siena to pick up another couple. From there we drove to Montalcino, listening to Rebecca talk about the famous Sangiovese Grosso grape I had read much about Brunello and Rebecca's knowledge did not disappoint. She reinforced most of what I had learned. That reinforcement continued when we arrived at the winery, where we met the lady of the house, Cartala; an English woman who had married an Italian when she young. Cartala was probably in her early fifties and was quite the character; funny and charming. I could've spent many a hours with her just talking and listening. She educated us in great detail about the vine, showing us the nodes and how pruning and organic fertilizer needed to be done. I had read much on it, but seeing it first hand, and seeing just how labor intensive the work is was incredible.

We then went into the cellar where the wine was actually in the process of fermenting. The sounds of popping and bubbling in the stainless steel tanks echoed off the walls as Cartala explained the process, showing us the de-steming machine, how many times they drain and transfer the containers, all the while refining the wine to its highest quality; then finally selecting the barrel the wine would go into, depending on the quality of the wine. I loved every moment of it.

Then came the tasting of the wines (see picture above). This was the part everyone had waited for, except for me and this other guy, who was making wine in his cellar. I enjoyed hearing all about the whole process. The wines were good, though the Brunellos we had in Siena the day before were much better; otherwise, I would've bought one.

Be sure to visit Rebecca's website: Wine Tour

Tuesday, October 9, 2007

2007-10-21T19:37:00.000-05:00

We all slept in Tuesday. The owner of our villa came by to fix our hot water issue. I think we just didn't know how to work it and no instructions written in English. He was a very nice older man, who could not speak English and I did the best I could. Ed'Veeje's Italian was pretty good and even she had difficulty. Some how, he and I worked together and communicated non-verbally and fixed the shower head.

We headed for Siena around 3pm. I really wanted to eat dinner in Siena at night. I heard so much about how beautiful Siena is at night and it didn't disappoint. We got there around 4pm and searched forever to find a parking place. I can't believe how difficult it was and how crowded; and this was not the high tourist season. It took us a while to figure how to get into the old city. We ended trapping ourselves up on the old walls of Siena.

Finally, we found our way down from the walls, and made our way to Il Campo, the famous Piazza where the yearly horse race (Palio) is run. We walked around the Piazza taking it all in, then we sat at one of the little restaurants over looking the square, where we ordered Brunello wine by the glass and Raquel ordered a beer. The wine was absolutely incredible.

The other memory I have was Raquel reading my manuscript and listening to her comments. Later that evening, we found a restaurant with white table cloths where Raquel finished reading the manuscript. We had the most beautiful dinner. Ed'Veeje said it was the best meal she has ever had while in Italy. I ordered a bottle of Brunello which the waiter decanted. It was even more incredible than earlier. I am telling you, this wine was better than any wine I have ever had. It was one of the best days of my life.

Monday, October 8, 2007 - Afternoon

2007-10-21T19:04:00.000-05:00

After Colle d'Val Elsa, we returned our little villa, but first stopping off at a little grocery store, and I mean little. We bought some some items to cook dinner with later that night. We hung out at the villa and enjoyed our place until about 4:00, when we headed off to San Gimignano. It was another walled town sitting high on a hill, and we could see it from our villa in the distance - 11 kilometers.

We ended up visiting many of these little walled city towns and the I think Ed'Veeje and Raquel enjoyed each one. Having been to Italy 7 times, they told me they had not experienced the things we all did that week.

In San Gimignano, we did some shopping. The girls went in many stores. I went into my fair share of stores. I ended up buying two nice wines. We had a late little something to eat at one the eaterys there at the Piazza in the center of town. We stayed until after dark. Ed'Veeje got a big carrying bag she said she had been looking for, for the last couple of years in Italy. They also bought a very pretty table cloth. I liked it so well, I thought I had to have one too, though mine was a different color, but the same pattern. I noticed it has a wine stain already on it and I love it. It will be perfect for a picnic.

Later that night, Ed'Veeje was kind enough to read my manuscript. We sat in the living room while Raquel retired early. Ed'Veeje and I stayed up talking as she read and commenting on my manuscript. Afterwards, we stayed up discussing religion and I enjoyed sharing my views with her so much, even though we had different opinions. I respect the Ed'Veeje and Raquel's belief and what they say to me does carry a lot of wait.

Monday, October 8, 2007

2007-10-21T17:16:00.001-05:00

The girls slept in Monday while I enjoyed my morning and journaled. I made myself coffee and ate my little danish the girls had gotten for me the night before. I also read and took some pictures and video.

I then drove into Colle d'Val Elsa to pay for our villa around 9:30am. I had already sent in the deposit months ago. Once in the office, I discovered, they required two passports, not just mine. So, I had to drive all the way back and pick up the girls and Ed'Veeje accompanied me into the offices, while Raquel walked around outside.

After the payment was taken care of, we drove up to the walled part of Colle d'Val Elsa which sat upon a large hill over looking the country side. The city itself had grown beyond its walls. We parked and walked to the old historic town. We found a little trattoria where we sat outside and a little lunch and of course, a little wine, which is the picture above.

Sunday, October 7, 2007

2007-10-21T16:19:00.001-05:00

I woke up around 8:30. Ed'Veeje and Raquels were already up because they had promised to spend some time with Ludmilla. I tried to let them have their time, but they all invited me down for coffee and pastries. We told Ludmilla we were leaving at 10am to drive to our little villa.

We were off to Florence around 10:15 and to Chianti country. We must've drove 4 hours before we found our villa. We first had to drive to Colle d'Val Elsa and find the booking agency. The had left us directions to Ciliegio villa. Monday, I would come back pay for a whole week. Our villa was 3km from Poggoibonsi, about 9km from Colle d'Val Elsa. It is amazing how fast you can leave a city and be up in the country away from everyone and everything.

Ciliegio villa was perfect for the three of us. It was a two story house made from rock. It use to be a barn like so many of these country homes and villas. The downstairs was the living room with a big fireplace, which we lit one night, as the nights were cool. The kitchen was typical Tuscany with its country rustic look. Wooden beams ran across the ceilings. The two bedrooms were upstairs. My room looked over the valley with tremendous view. The table you see in the picture, we moved down to a little area below the steps in the foreground where our view was even better. We sat out there drinking our wine or enjoying our coffee. The weather cooperated fully and it was never too cold or to hot.

Our first night there though, we had no food. We drove into Poggoibonsi and tried to find some place open. We spent almost an hour searching for something, anything. We were about to give up when Raquel spotted a little eatery that was open. We loaded up on sandwiches and bought two wines. We drove back to our villa and settled in. It was a beautiful start to our week.

Saturday, October 6th, 2007

2007-10-21T15:56:00.000-05:00

I awoke early and looked out at a most beautiful view. It was like every post card you ever seen. The girls slept in until 11 am - I guess they were very tired - lol.

I ended up spending a lot of time by myself, as none of the family seem to be up and about; at least not until around 9:30. Ludmilla made me some espresso. I told her not water it down, buy she did - lol We had a good conversation and got to know each other. Her English was very good. I showed her on the map of Italy where our small little Villa was and the things we would be doing. She was really excited for us and wanted to go. I know she was just kidding.

Finally, the girls woke up and and we hung out until they served lunch outside (see pic above). Again, it was a perfect setting. Again, we drank plenty of table wine, ate bread, and enjoyed good company. Later in the afternoon, we visited a little farm across the valley. It was good to get a view of where we were staying from a different angle (see video below- the first view is from the farm).

That night we had another great meal. Ludmilla ended up having a bad migraine and couldn't eat dinner with us. Her father roasted chestnuts over an open fire after Raquel and Ed'Veeje helped split the chestnuts open. Both had blisters on their hands the rest of the week. They were using dull knives and I was hoping they wouldn't cut themselves.

We stayed up late talking to Ludmilla's husband. Great conversations. His English was not as good as his wifes', but we all managed to understand each other pretty good. Everyone else went to bed and it was just us four. We had some great Port, which he and I drank quite a bit - lol

Friday, October 5th, 2007

2007-10-21T15:38:00.000-05:00

I got up early and walked around. I took some pictures of Piazza della Signoria before the tourist got there. I saw Italians walking to work and street cleaners washing the piazza.
I walked over to Melinda's place and dropped off my poetry book, which I had wrapped in plain paper. I hope Melinda enjoys it. I then walked accrossed the Ponte Grazie bridge, turned back toward Ponte Vecchio, walking along and watching the beautiful Arno River.

I had a wonderful continental breakfast at the Hotel Guelfa. At 12:30, Ed'Veeje and Raquel showed up at the hotel. We had a little time before we were to pick up the rental car, so we walked to the Duomo. Ed'Veeje says she doesn't feel like she is in Italy until she sees 'her' Duomo. We then walked to the San Lorenzo market area. It is filled with dozens of merchants selling all kinds of wares. For this newcomer, it was pretty interesting.

So who are Ed'Veeje and Raquel? Two dear friends I have known for about 10 years through another friend, though I have only gotten to know them on a deeper level in the last few years. They have been an inspiration to me in so many different ways and given me strength when I needed it, especially Ed'Veeje. Last year, they invited me to Italy, thinking I would be a good travel companion. It was as if I had been invited into a special "inner circle" and I have felt very privilege, and if you knew them, you would know exactly what I meant.

We finally made our way to get the rental car after going to the wrong place twice - my fault, which we laughed about. Not every journey goes smoothly as they say. But finally we got to our car and we were off driving through the streets of Florence. Ed'Veeje navigated for me while Raquel crashed in the back seat.

I had blast driving the little fiat out of Florence with E'vee's help. You just have to not be afraid to go for an opening when it opens up. The girls were impressed with my driving, as was I, I might add.

The drive to their friends house, Ludmilla, was a good trip. It was pretty easy driving up there, which was about an hour and half west of Milano. We met Ludmilla and her husband at an ice cream place in town after dark, then followed them up to the house in the hills. It was a good thing too, because we were driving in the dark. Had we not been following them, I think it would've been impossible to find. Up and down hills, sharp turns. When we arrived, her parents had dinner waiting. A true Italian dinner with true Italians. It was quite fun, and a great experience, though we drank way too much - lol

Finally, I am in Florence

2007-10-04T12:53:00.000-05:00

After a long flight, I arrived 8 hours ago. Florence was exactly like I had imagined and studied. When I saw the buildings I had read about and viewed on the Internet driving to my hotel with the taxi, I knew exactly where I was. Though my hotel room was small, the hotel made up for it with their tower terrace. It offers a 360 view of Florence. This picture to right is with the Duomo behind me. The view, the weather, everything was perfect - except someone special not being next to me.

edit: I was able to upload a small video. This view was atop the Guelfa Hotel and my first view of Florence 360 degrees. Pretty damn cool.

The flight over was very good considering how long it was. Air France did an excellent job. The meals were good, service was excellent. However, the engine noise was quite loud. I had trouble sleeping. Getting through the Pairs Airport was also horrific. I am amazed they get anything done there. I thought for sure my bags would not be in Florence, but they made it okay.

Tomorrow, I'll get up early and walk around taking pics before the tourist get up. I'll drop off my book for Melinda Gallo at her apt along the Arno. Tomorrow is her bday. Then, I should be meeting Ed'Veeje and Raquel at the Hotel Torre Guelfa here.

What are my Expectations

2007-08-30T07:47:00.000-05:00

As my trip to Italy approaches, I keep thinking about what kind of expectations I have. I have tried to live my life in the last several years (since 1994) without expecting too much out something or someone. That doesn't mean, I don't look forward to things because I do indeed. With great expectations or desire can come significant let downs.

But I must admit, I feel my "expectations" growing. Much more so than when I went to Pamplona, Spain to Run with the Bulls. I have learned much about Florence, studied her streets, read blogs about her people, and while I am ready to meet her, I wonder if I am also looking for some kind of Pilgrimage? I recently have been reading the book, "The Art of Pilgrimage", and while I think a lot of it is new age, I believe in the foundation of 'pilgrimage'. There were great ideas in this book which affirmed much of what I have already done or prepared before this trip. It seems even before reading this book, I had already been planning many of the suggestions outlined in the book; such as bringing back pieces of your travel, from leaves, rocks, and such. I had bought this little clear glass container, no more than 3" tall months ago, so I could bring back some dirt from Tuscany. I highly recommend reading the book. Allow it to change your perspectives on your everyday view of the world which surrounds you in your daily life.

So, do I 'expect' this trip to be some kind of life altering event? Yes. I am looking for inspiration for a book I am writing. Then from a personal side, inspiration inside of myself. To live each day more fully. To stretch myself further. To chase more dreams. To never give up on love. I think Florence can offer me this. It is not that I don't try to do this already, but I think we all need a "charge" of electricity of inspiration. This can come from many places; a book, a place, a poem, or a person.

I doubt I will visit many, if any museums or historic places; it is Florence herself I am wanting to see. I want to hear her sounds, smell her smells, see the sun rise and set upon her. I want to "be" a part of her, even if it is short lived. While I would love to visit the museums and sites, I have not studied them in detail. I have not prepared for this part of Florence. I suspect I will do so another time, then return to spend more intimate moments with Florence's children - her art, architecture, her history.

I think for me, more importantly, will be to share this trip with friends. When I went to Spain, I went by myself. While I had fun, I wished I was sharing it with someone special. Ed'Veeje and her sister, Raquel, are special friends, whom I look forward to experiencing Italy with. They have been several times, so they will be guides. I do not think I will be disappointed.

Montalcino Wine Tour set

2007-08-24T07:59:00.000-05:00

I have a wine tour booked in the small Tuscany town, Montalcino, famous for their Brunello wine. Booked through Tuscan Wine Tours with Rebecca, this should be an incredible experience.

Not only will I get to visit and explore the small town of Montalcino, but also get to visit the Abbey of Sant'Antimo (12th Century) and if I am lucky, get to hear the monks sing the Gregorian Chants.

This is the only official planned event I have scheduled while in Tuscany. Everything else is completely unplanned, which is the way I like it. I do not want to be kept to an itinerary. I do have some places I want to visit, but nothing demanding I be somewhere at a certain time.

I think having dinner in Montalcino at night might be grand, don't you?

Italian Vacation Plans coming together

2007-08-23T11:17:00.000-05:00

Excitement and anticipation grows. The plane tickets are purchased, the villa is booked, and learning all about Florence has come along nicely.

I have a very detailed map of Florence, and with some help of blogs on the Internet detailing their living experiences in Firenze, I have traced their walks and have been learning the streets of Florence. I make notation of a little bookstore here they mention or a beautiful view of Florence from a terrace which is only accessible through a department store - which most tourist do not even know about.

I want to spend most of my time in Florence just wondering her streets, occasionally stopping to go into a shop or admire a building or take a picture of something beautiful. Most of all, I look forward to sharing all of this with my two friends, Ed'Veeje and Raquel. They have visited Firenze many times. I am sure they can show me many wonderful things. Forse (perhaps) I can demonstrate some knowledge of Florence by showing them something they have never seen.

Italiano

2007-08-22T17:37:00.000-05:00

Since August of 2006, I have begun my journey to try and learn Italian. It has been one year. Can I speak Italian (Posse parla Italiano)? Yes and no. As those who have tried to learn a new language can attest, one really needs others to practice with; ie: school, a friend, or immersion. While I believe I have come a long way in a year, I know I could not hold a conversation with an Italian. However, I do think I could get my meanings across in most situations, like getting a table at a restaurant, buying gas or wine, or asking for directions. So, to that end, I suppose I have achieved my goal.

I started learning Italian because when I travel there this coming October, I wanted to show respect for Italian people by at least "attempting" their language. I am convinced now if you truly want to learn a language, you must live there and immerse yourself in the culture. Since that is impossible for me, I do want to continue to learn Italian; speaking and writing. Once I return from my upcoming October trip, I will start looking for a school around here.

The other idea I had was to form a like minded group of people who want to learn Italian and get together once a month and speak Italian for the evening. I think this could be done in the context of a dinner or people bringing wine. I will look into this avenue as well.

I started with the popular 'Rosetta Stone'. However, I found it kind of worthless. Mostly because there is no translation with the pictures. Sure, you learn to see and object and identify it in Italian, but you don't learn the grammar rules; so I returned it.

What has worked best for me has been the Pimselur Italian method. I loaded up the cd's onto my iPOD and listened while bike riding or driving to work. I have realistically spent about 10 - 15 hours week learning Italian on average. Lets say 624 hours - lol. It has real Italians speaking velocemente (fast) and does a good job of really teaching you to listen and speak Italian. I also would highly recommend writing all the lessons out on paper (or Word), and using this web-site to look up Italian words: http://www.wordreference.com/iten/c'%c3%a8

I also bought a couple of verb workbooks which helped a lot.

My goal is to continue learning Italian as best as I can; and keep returning to Italy and speak this beautiful language.

Starting a blog

2007-07-27T19:29:00.001-05:00

Why not? Everyone is doing it. LOL!

Seriously, even though I have my own private, non-commercial web-site (www.michaelpalmer.net) I wanted to start this blog as I get ready for a trip to Italy; specifically Florence and Siena and with day trips through out Tuscany.

My intention is to try and blog from Italy as much as I can if I have access to the Internet. If not, I'll keep a daily journal and post when I return.

I have been planning this trip for about a year. I have actually been trying to learn Italian for the last 11 months too, using Pimsleur Italian I. I knew it is about impossible to speak fluent Italian in one year, but out of respect for the Italians, I wanted to at least know some Italian and try to speak a little. I think to that end, I have been successful and look forward to using a little while in Italy. I don't expect to have any long conversation because I'd be lost; plus Italians talk very fast.

While I have everything pretty well planned now, it is the little things I am preparing now; such as deciding exactly some of the things I would like to do and where to go for dinner. You can make reservations at many places way in advance. I will probably do so in September. I already have one winery tour booked. It will be in the Montalcino area and we'll explore Brunello wines.

Also, I am trying to decide if I should purchase a new camcorder. I have an old Sony from 2000 I took to Pamplona, Spain with me, but I am really leaning towards the new High Definition camcorders. With the new 1080i TV's and this camcorder, I can imagine Italy will look phenomenal. Trying to decide has been difficult as I research them.